ONE TOWN, ONE ARTICHOKE

The day I went to meet the owner at the villa was a really warm Sunday in March. I went with Daniela an old friend of mine with lot of curiosity in common. We arrive late morning - almost noon, so after the visit, the discussion, the pictures, yada yada yada, we drove back toward Palermo. It was already 2.00 pm and our stomach was yelling for revenge, so we decided to go to Cerda a really small village nearby where I knew it was famous for the production of artichokes. However I really didn't know what to expect from a town famous for its artichokes...I mean what kind of fantasy you may have thinking about this vegetable...As soon as we got in town a huge crowd of people was standing in line "italian way" (so basically nobody was in line but just occupied the road!) in front of the first restaurant. But right after it, in front of the second restaurant, the same situation was welcoming the surprised visitors, and so on...'till we were welcomed by the symbol of Cerda: a giant artichoke sculpture proudly located in the main "Piazza". I mean I had some suspect as I was getting in: wide stretch of green hills interely cultivated with artichokes, but a sculpture... Even if it was sunday a lot of houses and small shops were open, but don't get excited "a shop open on Sunday in Italy?", no, we hardly loose our tradition! They were just selling artichokes like flowers bouquet.

Finally we find a place (the last restaurant at the end of the village) where there was only 10 people before us (and the almost 100 people already sitted! Mostly families with three generation at the table: from grand grand parents to the last crying baby!), but that was our lucky day: a young waiter felt in love with Daniela, and after 5 minutes we got a table, a glass of local wine and the first appetizers coming (thank you Daniela!). Then I discover the world of artichokes:six antipasti artichokes based, two pasta dish with artichoke (one delicious made with ricotta cheese, artichokes and fava beans) and meat and fruit and cannoli...this is how a simple vegetable can change your life!!!

The question is:"when should I go there?" Well, artichokes season in Sicily is from the end of January to the end of April (every year on April 25 the town of Cerda celebrates the Artichoke Festival, remember all the people in the middle of the road? Well imagine ten time more people...you get the picture), then is matter of what you looking for:If you are looking for a total experience - human and culinary one, go there on sunday: it is a reality show about the Sicilian way of life (I saw several couples dancing on the street while they were waiting for the table). On the other hand if you are looking for a quiet day experiencing deeply the delilciouness of artichokes, go there during midday and avoid saturday and sunday... unless you'll bring Daniela with you!!!

© 2000-2002 InSicily - Giovanni Matta