Samoa - Savai'i Island -Falealupo- The unforgettable North-West coast
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Best Friends: Angela, Fabio,Chiara, Massimo, Irene, Raffaele
This section describes two 'self-drive' tours: one for each
of the main islands. It is assumed you will be renting a vehicle to undertake the tours.
However, all sites are just as easily accessed by taxi or by bus - it will just take you
more time. The tours should be read in association with the 'HEMA' map of Samoa, which is
available at the Samoa Visitors Bureau.
Around Upolu
This section describes the main attractions around Upolu, and is divided up
into sections based on the main roads. The route is generally clockwise, although any
direction can be taken.
This road runs between Apia and Faleapuna, passing through many tidy and pretty coastal
villages.
Saoluafata Beach is a good swimming and snorkelling location. Ask at the village
for access.
Piula Cave Pool, located just after Saoluafata is an ideal location for swimming,
snorkelling and picnicking. The entrance to the freshwater pool is through the gates to
the Piula Methodist Theological College on the seaward side of the road. You will see a
sign at the entrance stating the entry fee and visiting hours (8.00am to 4.30pm, closed on
Sunday). Note that the sign is easily viewed when driving from Apia, but is more difficult
to spot from the other direction. Park your car under the tree near the college bell (an
old gas cylinder) and wait for a member of the college to collect your fee. The pool is a
short walk down to the sea. It is a good idea to take a mask as the water is very clear,
with several species of freshwater fish. Also visit the Piula Church above the pool, but
have regard for the activities of the College. Alcohol is not permitted on the College
grounds.
As you travel around the islands you will see where many villages have walled in
freshwater springs which emerge at the coast. These provide bathing and washing facilities
for the villages. Each village has a protocol for the use of the pools, so always ask
before swimming.
Lee Mafa Pass Road
This road extends from Faleapuna on the north coast of the island to
Lotofaga on the south. There are few villages on the route and it winds its way through
forest and plantations to Le Mafa Pass at 300m above sea level, where there are excellent
views over the Falefa river valley. The descent to the south follows, for some of the
route, the Mulivaifagatoloa River, giving close access to several picturesque waterfalls.
Uafato
You will need a four-wheel drive vehicle and some previous
off-road driving experience to travel the three hour (six hours return) dead-end road to
Uafato. The village is renowned for its carvers and the high quality products they
complete. The road is bounded by the sea on one side and dense rainforest on the other. A
slightly shorter route can be taken by joining the road to Uafato from just before the
summit of Le Mafa Pass. However, this bypasses some of the best scenery at Fagaloa Bay,
and is best left for the return journey. Make sure your petrol tank is full.
Fuipisia Waterfall
There is a 300m walk from a carpark on the side of the
road, to this 55m waterfall. Someone should be at the entrance to collect your entry fee.
If the price is not displayed, ask before visiting the falls.
Sopo'Aga Falls
A picnic site beside the road gives a view of these 50m
falls. Again, someone will be on site to collect an entry fee. You can also view the
Mulivaifagatoloa River (but not the falls) from a bridge a short distance down the road,
which leads from Le Mafa Pass west to South Coast Road.
Richardson Road
This road leads from just below the south side of Le Mafa Pass to the
Aleipata coast. The route is bordered on both sides by dense vegetation and plantations.
There are few settlements and no stopping points.
Aleipata Coast
This is a very picturesque stretch of coast, with a string of
attractive villages on one side and a bright, clear lagoon on the other. The snorkelling
is excellent, and similarly the swimming. Ask at the nearest village for permission first.
Guides are necessary for access to the offshore islands of Fanuatapu, Namua, Nuutele and
Nuulua.
Lalomanu Crater Walk
Just behind the hospital in Lalomanu Village is the start
of a short walk to a long-extinct volcanic crater, just above the line of cliffs behind
the South Coast Road. The crater is home to a big population of flying foxes. The animals
are easily startled, so avoid making sudden noises. Ask for permission and a guide at
Lalomanu.
Mains South Coast Road
This stretch of coast has numerous swimming and snorkelling
opportunities. Many of the beaches are associated with commercial beach fales so you will
be asking permission from fale owners or villagers.
This section looks at the most significant activities that Samoa offers
visitors, and offers advice about where and how to do them.
There are several very good snorkelling sites around both islands.
Palolo Deep Marine Reserve (one of the safest), Saoluafata, Lalomanu and
the Aleipata Coast, and the beaches on the south west side of the island from Anapu to
Savaia.
The beaches from Safotu to Manase, Satuiatua, and between Lesolo Point and Tuasivi.
Points to remember:
*)Snorkelling is usually best a high tide, reducing the need to walk over coral
*)Wear reef shoes or old sandshoes if you don't have fins to protect your feet
*)Always be aware of where you put your hands and feet. Some fish are poisonous
(including the some fish), coral is abrasive, some of it stings, and you can easily do a
lot of damage. It is best to not touch anything and to stand only on the sand
*)Beware of rip currents. Water pours into the lagoon as waves break over the reef, and
this water has to escape the lagoon somewhere. Often the currents leaving the lagoon are
travelling at several kilometers an hour. Avoid swimming near where there is an obvious
current, or near breaks in the reef (where there is no surf breaking).
*)Always ask permission if there is a village or beach fale nearby.
Surfing
Samoa is a new discovery as a surfing destination and there are several promising surf
locations. Currently there is very little competition for waves. Generally the north side
of the islands is better during the northern winter and the south side is better during
the southern winter, although the southern side is the most consistent all year. About 75
percent of days have waves since Samoa is right in the middle of the Pacific and has no
neighbouring obstacles to block ocean swells.
The surfing is, however, for experienced surfers only. The waves break directly on coral
reefs and a mistake at the wrong time could be disastrous. The currents can, and often
are, extremely strong. Surfing is therefore, best a high tide when the reef is partly
covered. In some villages it is not permitted to surf on Sunday and you are likely to be
fined if you try (and it is unlikely that you'll have enough pigs to pay with!). The
locations that are open are generally associated with a resort.
Waves are often not visible from shore and it takes some skills to work out where the best
are. The tide, winds and swells are a big part of the recipe and if you're not using a
local guide you'll find surfing frustrating and possibly dangerous. The Salani Surf Resort
on Upolu's south coast caters to surfers, and so does the recently established Savaii
Surfaries, based at the Vaisala Hotel in Savaii. Both have very knowledgeable guides. Ask
at the Samoa Visitors Bureau for contact details.
The best surfing spots include:
Upolu: From Apia east to Cape Utumauu, on the south coast from Matautu to Matatufu, and
off Aganoa Beach and Sinalei Reef Resort (Siumu) also on the south coast.
Savaii: Near Satuiatua on the south coast, near Manase on the north and near Lesolo Point
on the north east. On Savaii a daily surfing fee is payable to the villages. This fund
assists the local children's education. Ask at your hotel or beach fale about the daily
permits.
Hiking and Tramping
There are dozens of excellent tramping and hiking routes on the island, including long
coastal walks and demanding mountain treks. However, Samoans don't do much hiking and the
trails rapidly grow over with vegetation. It is worth asking for local advice before
heading off, as villagers will always know where the best routes are. Or, take a guide
(see the Samoa Visitors Bureau Visitor Information Directory). The most accessible, long
day-walks are listed in the 'self dive' section of this booklet. For the very adventurous,
1:20,000 topographical maps can be purchased from the Department of Lands, Survey &
Environment. Twenty-eight maps cover both islands.
Ecotour Samoa has published an excellent guide to many of the best hikes on the islands,
giving locations, map coordinates, track distances and approximate times. See either the
Rainforest Ecolodge at Tanumapua near Apia or ask the Samoa Visitors Bureau for contact
details.
Some of the best walks include the following. Most require a half day, and you will need
to take plenty of water, good shoes and in some cases a guide. Always ask at the local
village for permission and directions.
Upolu:
*)Le Fale O Le Fee, an archaeological site at the end of Faipule Road
which extends south out of Apia.
*)Amaile to Tafaga Beach on the north east coast (there are many
secluded beaches along here).
*)Anapu to Lefaga, a coastal walk on the south western end of Upolu
*)From Falelatai at the very end of the West Coast Road to the Matafa'a
village road. This used to be a formed road but has since overgrown.
*)Several walks extend from the village of Uafato on the north east side of the island. You can also walk the four-wheel drive route into the village from the main road.
Savai'i:
*)Satuiatua. Behind the village a walk extends into the hills to a
waterfall. There is also a coastal walk westward.
*)Falealupo Road to Cape Puava. Just behind Moso's Footprint a short
walk leads to some rugged, secluded beaches. The walk can be extended around the coast to
Cape Puava.
*)From Sasina to Letui on the north coast. Letui also has a two-hour
rainforest trail.
*)The Satoalepai wetlands, also on the north coast
*)Most villages have a route nearby heading inland.
Hints:Transport on Samoa Islands are merely inexistent and unreliable. On the buses you'll find men, women, children, animals, fruit wooden boxes and so many other things. Bus Driver may stop everywhere between 1 and 20 times in a KM range. Rent a Jeep in Apia(Upolu Island) and take the ferry to Savai'i(The best accomaodation is by far Tanu Beach Fale. You'll sleep in tha Hut as shown in the Picture above). Along the way to Falealupo watch out for boys and pigs crossing the street. Drive slowly as the wind is strong.
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