The West Coast
For the final leg of my journey, I had one dream: to cycle the Avenue des Baobab! So I backtracked to Antsirabe, a surprisingly interesting colonial town, and took a taxi-brousse to Morondava. It took us 17 hours to drive the 450 km on a road that was partially in good condition, partially in terrible state of disrepair, with potholes so big that the sealed surface that was left was barely large enough for a motorbike.
Morondava has a Far West feeling, with sand on the streets and few people around during the hottest hours of the day. It is the place where I met the highest number of vazahas (Westerners), partly because we were approaching peak season, partly because most organized trips descend the Tsiribihina River and end up here, after visiting the Tsingys.
Cycling the Avenue des Baobabs was far less sublime than imagined, mainly because of the sand I had to struggle with. The baobabs were amazing, though.
On the way to Bekopaka (210 km to the North), I stopped in Kirindy, one of the most charming parks I visited, where I saw 3 more species of lemurs and the puma-like fosa (I am persuaded that one of them even punctured my tent with its claws while I wasn't there, looking for food)
The final leg from Belo to Bekopaka was also my last day on the bicycle: 100 km of sandy, dusty, potholed track with very few diversions apart from a chameleon crossing the road and a couple of small villages. I arrived on the Manambolo River covered in dust, but proud of myself.
In Bekopaka I met Phillip, from South Africa, who is working for a telecommunications venture, building antennas for mobile phones in remote areas. For a change, I spent a couple of evenings in good company, chatting away with him and his crew.
The Tsingy of Bemaraha National Park is one of the most famous natural attractions of Madagascar, and it was the last park I visited. This spectacular area is real fun to explore, and as usual in Madagascar, unusual plants and animals add to the uniqueness of the experience.
Tired of riding on the sand, I backtracked on 4 wheels, in varying degrees of comfort.
After one last relaxing day in Morondava, it was back to Tana by plane and then to France.
“Pousse-pousse Capital” Antsirabe
The only two cyclists I met during the whole trip!
Buying carrots while waiting for the taxi-brousse to Morondava to leave...
Finally ready for the 17-hour drive to Morondava
Sunrise near Mahabo
The sandy streets of Morondava
And the dreadful Route Nationale
Entering Baobab Country
Cycling the Avenue des Baobab
The sandy road to Belo sur Tsiribihina
A Verreaux Sifaka in Kirindy Forest
A young red-fronted lemur comes closer to study me!
The nocturnal Sportive Lemur is waking up at sunset (Kirindy Forest)
A fosa visiting the camp at night and the typical Malagasy breakfast... rice! (what else?)
Back on the road to Belo...
I’m in for more sand!
A colorful tomb, possibly of a girl?
Arrival on the Tsiribihina River
Waiting for the ferry, my bicycle gets a lot of attention
Local kids playing their mothers
Leaving Belo at sunrise to Bekopaka
Had 5 delightful minutes , watching this chameleon cross the road in his funny style
The uneventful and dusty road to Bekopaka
Had my second puncture of the whole trip just 30 km from the end
Arrival on the Manambolo Rivera at sunset, after 100 km of sandy track
Tired but proud
The Big Tsingys of Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
The 4 hour circuit through the Tsingys is quite adventurous
My last lemur sightings
The Small Tsingys
Crossing the Manambolo at sunrise, on the way back to Morondava
The taxi-brousse to Morondava: 21 people in the back of a pick-up,
I had this cute girl on my knees for more than an hour
Morondava
Last sunset in Morondava
Last night in Tana, with Karine and Cecile (met in Kirindy)
Back in Paris, I am in for a reverse cultural shock!
